About the Blog - Fragments of a Life

This blog will contain things I have written; some of my best photos; and a selection of my favourite recipes. I am truly fortunate to have traveled to and worked in fascinating places, met remarkable people, and seen many of the wonders of planet earth. Friends have urged me to write about these experiences and to publish my photographs. Maybe, one day, these will come together into a book. For now, they will be presented as fragments of a life since I am not yet prepared to "retire" and write. As well, for many years, I have been promising to publish my "cookbook". As I cannot get my act together to edit that all at once, I will start publishing those recipes one by one.

Friday, April 5, 2013

Letters from the Field - 18 April 2010 - Karamoja, Uganda



First Letter from Karamoja. – 18 April 2010
It is now three months since I left Canada for Karamoja (in the northeastern section of Uganda).  Apologies for the long silence. But, once again, I confronted an unrelenting bureaucracy which, on this occasion, kept me in Kampala for almost two months. While I did some work while I was there – the first draft of a report on the human rights implications of a UPDF military operation against cattle raiders in Kacheri (about which more below), and an edit of a long-overdue report on land rights issues in northern Uganda  -- Acholiland, which the Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA) had ravaged, displacing most of the population from the districts of Gulu, Lira, Kitgum and Pader – sitting in a hotel/apartment in the capital was not the assignment I had signed on for.
 It is true that Kampala (particularly the area, Kololo, where most of the UN agencies are housed and where the foreign embassies are located) is very green and pleasant. The city is built on 7 hills, a little like Rome. There are large villas and gardens, the temperature is an ideal 75-80 F, because while Kampala is at the equator, it is on a high plateau and on the shores of Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake. Of course, there are excellent restaurants and supermarkets in the capital, I was able to see “Alice in Wonderland” at the cinema (for the cost of approx. $5), and I located an excellent book exchange where you can buy any book they have for $3 and get $1.50 back if you return it. Nonetheless, I was increasingly frustrated, even after I moved to a apartment with a swimming pool and a small kitchen, so I didn’t need to rely on restaurant fare. As well, I had purchased a whole household of goods, from sheets to towels, to pots, pans, plates, cutlery, a stove, an iron….and boxes of tinned food and staples, from spaghetti, to rice, to lentils, to oil, and spices. And, of course, wine. All of that was done in the first week when I thought I was to deploy immediately to the field, as I knew there would be little I could buy in Kotido. And then, I had to move that repeatedly.
Finally, a month ago, I was able to travel first to Moroto and then to Kotido, where I am now installed in a small pre-fab in the compound of the World Food Program – a little house that serves as both my living quarters and my office. There is only one other international among the UN or NGO staff out  here – but, as I have a small kitchen and my own bathroom, and electricity when the generator is on – I am quite happy the arrangement. I have three staff who work with me – a National Human Rights Officer, who is a Karamajong and speaks the language, a driver also a local, and an office assistant. While people warned me in advance about the heat, it has been quite pleasant. Apparently, I brought the rains to Karamoja, so I have been name “Nakiru” (she who brings the rain). In the evenings, it is cool enough to need a blanket for sleeping. (I got two wonderful hand women blanket at a coop in Kotido, which serve me well.)
My first major assignment – apart from getting to know the players and the issues – has been to try and verify the information originally collected in January about a major military operation by the Ugandan People’s Defence Forces (UPDF) to try and recover several thousand head of cattle raided by the Jie (the main Karamajong tribe in Kotido District) from the Dodoth (the dominant tribal group in Kaabong – another Karamoja district to the north of Kotido).  This involved operations on both the 4th and 5th of January, and on 22nd January – where the military attacked kraals they believed contained the cattle stolen from the Dodoth – operations which involved the use of both helicopter gunships and infantry.  Bombs dropped on the kraals scattered both animals and people, and then the infantry came in to round up the animals and disarm the warriors – though very few guns were recovered, and only a fraction of the stolen cattle were impounded.  The fact-finding that was done in the wake of the operation led us to believe that more than 50 people had been killed and many injured in these operations -- including children, women and elderly – although the Government has acknowledged only five warriors killed and one soldier wounded. But a lot of the information was vague. So – the past few days, I have been out with my Human Rights Officer to the villages where we initially got information, to get find out whether those presumed to have been killed or injured in fact were killed or hurt, and to get names and dates. Now that a substantial amount of time has past, people are more willing to talk – less afraid that by passing on information the UPDF will visit their manyatta to search for weapons or accuse them of having participated in the raids. And what everyone confirms is that there were many children and elderly people in the attacked kraals, because they can then access milk and blood – though the government has been denying this fact.
 As I noted in my letter in January, cattle raiding has gone on for years between the tribes, and even between clans of the same tribe. But it was traditionally controlled by the elders, and done by the “warriors” to get cattle for bride price, or to replenish herds that had been decimated during hard times. With the introduction of modern weapons, rustling (of cattle, but also of goats and sheep), the scale of the raiding has changed dramatically and it has become highly destructive. There is also a commercial side to the raiding which was not present before – i.e., the cattle is sold for cash and trucked away, either to other parts of the country or to Kenya. In some respects, raiding is now conducted by what almost resembles criminal gangs. That goes on side by side with small scale raids. For example, when I was at the police post in the village of Kokoria two days ago, at 11.00 in the morning, we heard gunshots – and suddenly the police were scurrying to grab weapons and get their boots on. A small party of Dodoth warriors had raided cattle 2 to 3 kilometres from the police post. In that particular raid, the animals were apparently recovered, the raiders escaped, but no one was hurt. It doesn’t always turn out that way.
Because the police presence in Karamoja has been so weak – both in staffing and in equipment – and because the area is so huge (the size of Rwanda with a population of about a million) – the Government tasked the army to deal with the raiding and with disarming the population. But rather like the old west in the US, the Karamajong believe it is their right to carry a gun to protect their herds. The policy of “protected kraals” – where villages are told to bring their cattle to large holding areas that are supposedly protected by UPDF detachments, has only been partially successful, as often even the UPDF is overwhelmed by larger raiding parties of several hundred warriors – and as it means that villagers cannot access their animals for food (i.e., milk and blood).
So disarmament has become a forced disarmament carried out by cordon and search operations, which often involves the UPDF arresting large numbers of villagers and detaining them until family members produce a gun to secure their release. The fact that the family member may have to sell a few cows to illegally buy a gun to turn into the UPDF to get a father or husband or brother released is somehow lost on the military. As well, the “suspects” are often manhandled or beaten to get them to confess where they have hidden their weapons.
Recently, more police are being deployed into Karamoja to gradually take over more of the law enforcement from the military. Which is theoretically a good thing. But those who have thus far been deployed are from a newly created “Anti Stock-Theft Unit” (ASTU) – they are para-military although technically report to the Police Commander, they have had very little human rights training, and it appears that many are from tribes that had previously been raided by tribes in Karamoja and, therefore, they see this as an opportunity to get back at the Karamajong, and are proving to be quite brutal.
One particularly nasty practice that has been manifested the past months has been the police grabbing the “sukas” (the blankets) that all the Karamajong wear. Often – especially with children – they have nothing underneath their “suka” -- the one real possession of every Karamoja man and woman. The police either keep the “suka” to sell or force the victim to pay to get it back. A Karamajong will usually have only one “suka”which lasts them for several years. It is their main item of clothing, also their blanket, and their identity. Apparently, the Karamajong used to wear clothes made of tanned hides from their cattle and goats. In 1972 or 1973, Idi Amin Dada outlawed their wearing of hides, because he wanted to modernize all Ugandans. There were several massacres that occurred where Karamajong were rounded up, asked if they would give up their traditional dress, and those who refused were gunned down. So – at that time – the Karamajong borrowed the practice of wearing a “suka’ made of cloth imported from Kenya. When the police have been asked why they are taking the “sukas” from men in market places and trading centres, they say they have been ordered to do so by the military, because the Karamajong hide guns under their “sukas”.  There have actually been no reported cases of this happening since 2006 – so it appears like an excuse. What exactly is behind the recent suka snatching is not clear. But it is one of the issues we are looking into – and we will possibly hold a roundtable discussion on it, with the police, elders, the magistrate. 
This gives you a little idea of what my last month has been like. I have been very moved by the situation of the Karamajong. They are enormously proud people, and enormously poor. Their personal pride is expressed in the beads that both women and men wear, and that they decorate their children with. (I will attach a few photos.) They also have scarification patterns on their faces that denotes their various tribes or clans. And – for beauty, they remove the two bottom front teeth. The men wear these wonderful hats, sometimes with feathers, but always colorful. And, everyone is poor. They may have a lot of cattle or goats, but that only means they may get more milk or blood to drink. Little else. The poverty is visible in every aspect of their being. They are tall, long-legged and erect without an ounce of fat on their bodies. The old men will have two or three possessions, their “suka”, a small stool that is carved which they use both to sit on and as a pillow, and sometimes a walking stick or a spear. The young girls wear wonderful skirts out of a woven wool cloth (introduced at the same time as the wearing of the “sukas”) – which are knee-length, heavily pleated, in Scottish type plaids, sometimes with seven or eight panels of different plaids, and they swing their hips so the skirts bounce in a most provocative manner. But they will have only one skirt, one or maybe two t-shirts, and a suka.
The face of the poverty is, of course, most clearly etched in the faces of the children – with runny noses and infected eyes -- who go about either naked or in rags  -- not second-hand clothes, but literally rags --  torn bits of t-shirts, filthy old and torn party dresses that have been through several incarnations. Yesterday, I saw two little girls, two or three, with bowls in which they had collected a dozen or so “white ants” – which are eaten roasted or sometimes raw. I saw other children picking up a few sunflower seeds from the dirt to eat.  The food – one meal a day is normal, in the evening. Usually poshe (a cornmeal) or sorghum (often fermented) and beans. Milk and blood from the cattle or goats if their animals are in the village with them. On very very occasions do they eat meat – and that is usually goat rather than beef.
Sadly, very few children are going to school, and the quality of education of those who do is not very high. Noone wants to go to Karamoja to teach. What does attract them to school is a lunch school feeding program. Food – not education – is the attraction.
When I was taking part in an inspection of the prison in Kotido a few weeks ago, just shortly after I arrived here, I listened with amazement (though I said nothing) as the prison warden told us that the food situation in the prison was fine. The prisoners got porridge in the morning and poshe and beans at lunch time and dinner time. My reaction – unvoiced – was “My God! You are in prison for five years, and this is what you eat every day!” Then, I learned, that this is actually the same diet that the prison wardens eat, or the police, and most of the people in Karamoja
In the market in Kotido, you can find some tomatoes, small egg plants, small green peppers, onions, potatoes (what they call Irish), cabbage, avocados, some sad oranges, and of course bananas. But that is about it. Occasionally a few pineapples come up from the south. I have not been able to get lemons. No carrots here. No peas. No lettuce. Certainly nothing like brocholi or cauliflower. I haven’t seen greens, except dried ones, though I’m told you can find them here. And you can get eggs. And you can buy a chicken (if you are prepared to kill and pluck it). I have neither bought chicken nor meat (After I have seen them hacking it up in the market, I have become a temporary vegetarian).
The staple drink  here is fermented sorghum called “ebutia” – the dregs of which are fed to children. It is thought to be nutritious. Often, it is the only food a child will have to eat. Alcoholism is quite rife here and the source of a great deal of domestic abuse, and child abuse, including the rape (here called defilement) of very young children (frequently, from a year to five years of age). Another very sad chapter, which I will not go into now.
Well – enough for the moment, though I must add the footnote that I spent a wonder Easter vacation in Merchison Falls and took some great photos of a  male and female lion having a domestic dispute. She said she had a headache – he was insistent.  Those of you who wish to can see some of the photos on Facebook. I am also looking forward to a trip one day to Kidepo Valley National Park in Kaabong, on the Sudanese border. I have not yet been to Kaabong, but I am told it is quite beautiful and I look forward to it. Though, I must admit, that travelling wearing a flak jacket and a helmet, and a military escort is not my favourite way of travelling. However,  that is for another letter or I will put you to sleep.
I love to hear from you. So drop a note if time permits.
I belated happy Passover and happy Easter. As ever.

Laurie

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