Letters from the Field - June 2003 - Montenegro

Last Letter from Podgorica - June 2003

Friends. 

I am sorry that I have been so silent the past months. Time seems to pass so quickly. I find it hard to believe that I have been in Montenegro for more than a year. And it has been a fascinating year in many respects.  The Balkans are complicated, intriguing, filled with intrigue and very beautiful. So, I am not unhappy that I will be spending a little longer in the region, though I am leaving Podgorica and moving to Belgrade. Our Chief of Mission, Rick Towle, left yesterday to return to UNHCR in Geneva and I have been appointed acting Chief of Mission with responsibility for Serbia (including Kosovo) and Montenegro. Much more responsibility! A new challenge! All of that is to the good. But it is with regret that I leave the spectacular landscape of these black mountains (Cerne Gora).

My new email is lwiseberg@unhchr.org.yu though this one will continue to be operational for awhile as well. I will get a new mobile number but my old one will still work (381-69) 315-432. My Belgrade office number is (381-11) 3185-737 or our administrative assistant’s number (381-11) 3185-828. Fax. (381-11) 3185-872.

Some of you will recall that I had a gorgeous place in Podgorica – floor of a huge villa with a large yard, a vegetable garden ) where I grew my own tomatoes, cucs, onions, and cabbage), lots of fruit trees, a fireplace and a spectacular view from my terrace. I am really sorry to be giving that house up. But, the consolation is that I found a great place in Zemun (an old neighbourhood, not far from the River) that is almost as good as my Podgorica home. It is on the “New Belgrade” side of the river, which is good in that it is 10 minutes from the office and no need to fight the traffick over the bridge each day, but it is not in the old city, where I originally thought I might live. But, dollar for dollar, I came down on the side of comfort over class. As in Podogorica, I have a floor of a villa – with a large garden. I brought my Roma barbeque (the one the IDPs made for my at Konik I CamP), though the owners – who live downstairs – have a built in barbeque out back that I can use.  I have a small terrace – just for sitting, not for entertaining – but a dining room living room that is even bigger than I had in Montenegro. No fireplace, but a wood burning tile stove, which will do the trick. The one downer is that the walls in the living room are “pink” – “pink”. Those of you who have visited know that much of my stuff (carpets, pillows, hangings) are deep red, so pink is not a good backdrop. But, I will wait until the end of the year. If I get the job of Chief of Mission (I have to apply and compete against other who will also apply) – then I will repaint in white. Then, I have three bedrooms but very little furniture. One bedroom – the largest – has no furniture. Again, I will wait until things clarify and if it looks like I will be here for another year, I will invest in a fouton or two. In the meantime, last week I hired a truck and driver and all my things – including my plants and my barbeque -- were packed into the large minivan and I drove it all to Belgrade. So I am mostly moved in already.

Therefore, if any of you are in the area, I am sure I can manage something with the three beds and the couch that I do have. If it is in the summer, we may all just sleep on the floor in the living room because that is the only place where there is an conditioner, and it is very very very hot now.  In Podgorica, on Friday, it reached 40 degrees; in Belgrade, perhaps 38.

Friday I flew back to attend the inauguration of the President of Montenegro in Cetinje – the former capital, 40 kilometres from Podgorica. I must say, I pitied all the male ambassadors in their suits and ties as everyone was sardined into the salon for the inaugural addresss. But the reception in the garden afterwards was quite elegant. Unfortunately, I left my camera behind (a rare mistake) and was unable to take photos of the beautiful young men and women in their traditional Montenegrin costumes.

 Yesterday, I drove down to the coast to Sveti Stefan and spent a glorious day on the beach. Hot sun, cool water. The Adriatic is glorious. (Though, by the end of the day, the water was no longer pristine as the city’s sewage pipes seem to empty too close to the shore and seep into the beaches. But Montenegro and pollution is another story for another day.) Let me not spoil the portrait. Hot sun, blue water, olive trees. A group of us rented rooms in a villa overlooking Sveti Stefan as one of the internationals, who rents an apartment in Sveti Stefan for the summer, was throwing a birthday party that we all attended that evening. Others are still lying on the beach – but I have returned to Podgorica to, amongst other things, write this Last Letter from Podgorica. My next one will be my first letter from Belgrade.

Tomorrow morning I fly back to Belgrade. But, I have left my car here and intend to come back form most of my weekends during the summer months. We will see what is possible. Tuesday, I have a meeting in Vienna which I will be attending. Last week in June, I may go to Geneva for a short meeting. And second week of July, I will probably be in the US for a week.  For the rest of the summer, I should be here in the Balkans.

With warmest regards.