About the Blog - Fragments of a Life

This blog will contain things I have written; some of my best photos; and a selection of my favourite recipes. I am truly fortunate to have traveled to and worked in fascinating places, met remarkable people, and seen many of the wonders of planet earth. Friends have urged me to write about these experiences and to publish my photographs. Maybe, one day, these will come together into a book. For now, they will be presented as fragments of a life since I am not yet prepared to "retire" and write. As well, for many years, I have been promising to publish my "cookbook". As I cannot get my act together to edit that all at once, I will start publishing those recipes one by one.

Friday, April 5, 2013

Letters from the Field - September 2006 - Darfur, Sudan



First Letter from Darfur, Nyala, South Darfur – 1 September 2006


I have been in Darfur now for nearly a month. I should have written sooner, but somehow the days pass quickly and it is now 1 September. Today is Friday – the weekend -- to the extent that we take weekends in the field. But I have determined to make time to write a  letter. When I send it will depend on when we have Internet access, which is intermittent here. It’s hot – in the mid 30s I’d guess – but not unbearably so, as this is the rainy season and it cools off in the evenings.  

This afternoon, if security permits, some of our Joint Assessment (JAM) people – me among them - will be going to Kalma Camp, an IDP (internally displaced persons) camp which used to be the largest in Darfur, with over 100,000 people. Now, it is the second largest, as Gereida, south of Nyala, has surpassed 120,000. I know that all of these names mean little to you – they meant nothing to me before my arrival. It is as steep learning curve.

 “If security permits” derives from the fact that the UN Security Council yesterday passed a resolution to send a peacekeeping mission (17,000 troops and 3,000 police) into Darfur, if the Sudan Government consents to their deployment. Thus far, the answer of President Bashir has been to organize demonstrations in Khartoum and across Darfur saying “NO to Foreign Troops.”  In Nyala, there was a student march on Wednesday – 10,000 – to deliver a petition to the UNMIS mission. I am told it was orderly. I was actually in El Geneine, in West Darfur, at the time. But, today, at prayers in the mosques – sometime around noon – the word of the SC Resolution will be spread and we have, consequently, been placed on security alert with movement restricted to that which is essential. Whether or not they will permit us to go to Kalma, therefore, is unclear.

Kalma Camp, just a few kilometers outside of Nyala, has been a tense place. Last month, there were reports of large numbers of women (perhaps as many as 200) being raped when they were out collecting firewood, in some cases organized “mass” rapes. AMIS (the African Union Mission in Sudan – a force of  7000, highly underfunded – in fact, out of money at this point in time -- completely inadequate to cover Darfur -- an area the size of France though with a population of only 6 million) had stopped the firewood patrols that used to accompany the women when they left the camp, putting them at the mercy of the armed camel militia (the Janjaweed) that roam the area with impunity. The firewood is collected not only for cooking, but to generate some income for the women who sell it or make charcoal from it – the only income most of the women have to supplement the relief food that they receive. The youth in the camps – and there are large number of boys and young men in the camps with nothing to do -- have become militant and formed themselves into vigilante parties, as the Government of Sudan (GoS) police are not allowed in many of the camps and violence has escalated as the camps have become awash with arms.  

The situation here in Darfur – and in Sudan more generally – is highly complex and I have only a very superficial knowledge of it. What am I doing here? The Darfur Peace Agreement (DPA) which was signed in May – but which has only been accepted by two of the four main protagonists in this conflict – called for a Joint Assessment Mission to develop an Early Recovery Program (ERC) for Darfur. The JAM has 6 main clusters – with a few experts on each, working on “Peace and Security,” “Governance and Capacity Building,” “Basic Social Services,” “War Affected Communities – Livelihood Activities,” “Rule of Law” and “Returns.” Then there are “cross-cutting issues” – that affect all of the clusters – Gender, Reconciliation and Protection. I am doing the “Protection” dimension – to ensure that all of the 6 clusters take into account the need to protect civilians in the conflict and the human rights of all Darfurians in the peace. The problem is that there is no peace in Darfur. And since the signing of the DPA, there has been more, rather than less, violence. The opposition has fragmented further and the Government, with support from one SLA (Sudanese Liberation Army) faction – led by Mini Minawi and supported by armed militia (including the Janjaweed, the armed nomads) has been trying to consolidate or extend its areas of control – causing more displacement.  This week, there were attacks on a number of villages south of Buram in south Darfur, creating another 10,000 IDPs in that region. In North Darfur, the situation is very tense as the Government has sent in large number of troops to head off a feared attack on El Fashir (the capital of that province) and to drive the National Redemption Front  (NRF) out of a number of areas that they occupy.

There have been a number of attacks on NGOs. Three cars of ICRC (International Committee of the Red Cross) were hi-jacked about 10 days ago and two days ago ICRC found out that they killed the driver that they had abducted with the vehicles. So ICRC has pulled back all their staff in North Darfur to El Fashir.

All this being said, when I read the statement of Jan Egeland – UN Emergency Relief Coordinator warning that “if the humanitarian operation were to collapse, we could see hundreds of thousands of deaths” and that the fighting between Government forces and the rebels who did not sign the DPA “has resulted in hundreds of deaths, despicable gender based violence, systematic looting and an estimated 50,000 displaced in the last 8 weeks,” it sounds a bit surreal because it is not the way it feels on the ground. Which is not to say that it is not correct; it just doesn’t feel that I am in the middle of a war scenario of that magnitude.

Since coming here, I have been based in Nyala and have, thus far, made trips to Kabum and Kass (in south Darfur),  to El Fashir in north Darfur, and to Geneina in West Darfur – so to all three Darfurian provinces. The biggest challenge in the south was the condition of the roads and the water filled wadis that we had to cross. On the three (which became a four) day Kabum trip, with two four-wheel drive jeeps – there were at least 20 occasions that we needed to use the winch to get one car or the other out of mud. And there were places we wanted to go to but couldn’t reach because of the flooding. We had to stay an extra day because it took so long to cover the distance, given the condition of the roads. When you talk of roads here, you stretch the language, because most are just tracks across arid fields.  How the drivers know where to drive actually beats me as there are no sign posts anywhere. From Geneina, we visited one IDP camp – Sisi – that was accessible only by helicopter and was last visited by anyone from the international community only in June. Indeed, many places are only accessible that way, because of banditry on the roads. Most are classified D” – which means you can only travel with armed escort, or where you can only travel in a convoy of 4 vehicles. That essentially means there are no-go areas because you cannot get the escorts of vehicles. But all that being said, and despite visits now to many IDP camps, it still doesn’t feel like a war zone.

On the personal level, the greatest hardship is the absolutely miserable quality of Darfurian (I hesitate to generalize to all of Sudan) food. People here eat breakfast, call “futur” at around 11 a.m. which consists of “full” (which is largely red beans cooked with some meat) and almost everything – lots of tough meat -- is fried in oil with little or no green or fresh vegetables. There are a few restaurants in Nyala, one worse than the other, but we are lucky by comparison with El Fashir, which has only “The Roast House” (fried hamburgers, fried chicken, fried mutton), or Geneina – which has no restaurants. There is actually one place in Nyala, the “Lebanese,” which does serve a good salad and sometimes baba ganoush or humus. And there is one “Indian” – a little far, as it is on the other side of the market -- which sometime is OK. But, as I have gotten to know people here, I have had some “home cooked” meals – you can buy pasta, and tinned tuna, and tinned mushrooms, and in the market you can get tomatoes and eggplant. So some variety is possible. At the Syrian grocery, you can sometimes get yoghurt and, if you want to spend $10 a box, you can even buy corn flakes.

The accommodations are basic. A lumpy mattress. A fan in the room (no aircon) if the generator is on, a cold shower, a toilet, in my guest house, a real toilet – in most places a squat. The body is a creature of habit; it took quite awhile till I taught it to pee from a squatting position. The bladder kept saying – this is not the conditions under which I empty myself!! But, you can teach an old dog new tricks – it is possible. For example, I no longer flinch when I see cockroaches. That is just part of the landscape. The other evening, I watched with fascination in our courtyard as a small rat attacked and devoured a particularly large roach, maybe four inches long and a good two inches wide.

And – you do learn new and fascinating things. For example, in discussions with some blacksmiths in a village outside of Nyala, I learned that a camel can do twice the work of a donkey, but it costs 10 times more to feed a camel than to feed a donkey. Hence, in the 1990’s, the camel plough was modified into a donkey plough with the donkeys now doing most of the field work. I have also learned that the plants that look like small bulrushes are millet, while sorgum is a large cluster of fat grains clumped together on the stalk.

I have bought a few attractive mats and baskets here to support IDP women (woven with orange and red dyed raffia), a donkey whip, and a few handmade knives – but there is not much to buy. Jesse and Rox will be relieved I think, though I am going to have to send what I bought home with DHL, given how little luggage we are allowed. To Nyala, I was permitted 15 kilo, which meant I left one suitcase in Khartoum. Another is in Geneva.

How long I will be here is not clear.  The project is due to end by mid to end Septemebr so I will probably be moving on by early October, if not sooner. But I need to write my program folk in Geneva to see what is next in store.

While Internet is irregular here, it is always great to hear from people, so do write.

With warmest regards,

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